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7th Gen ('06-'07): Powertrain Issues

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  #1  
Old 09-19-2016, 03:54 AM
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Default Powertrain Issues

When I first looked at the car, I thought I saw oil on top of the engine cover. I've now run fingers through it, and that's what it is. This can't be an oil leak--oil can't drip upward--right? (Yes, the oil fill cap is in place, so it's not flinging oil upward, either.) What can this be coming from?

Also, the transmission occasionally doesn't want to shift down into first when stopped. The lurch when I accelerate to make it downshift isn't fun. This is particularly annoying, as I had a friend who had the 4T80-E in her Aurora and never had a day of tranny trouble. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how expensive a fix are we talking?

Thanks.
 
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Old 09-25-2016, 01:19 AM
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Bueller?
 
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Old 09-25-2016, 08:01 AM
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I am not sure if the 2007's are included with the valve cover leak recall but it is possible it could be leaking there slightly and being blown onto the cover by the fan or the air created by the serpentine belt. Just a thought
 
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Old 09-25-2016, 11:04 PM
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Oil on top of the engine cover would be from a spill while pouring, I'd think.

Check your transmission fluid, if it looks nice and red, is at the proper level, and doesn't smell burnt, then you probably need a rebuild, or solenoids at the very least. In any case, if your fluid is good, it's probably going to be expensive, because the cradle has to come down or the engine and tranny have to come out to do that type of work. I'd guess like $1000-$2000 in labor at least in either scenario.
 
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Old 09-28-2016, 01:16 AM
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General gunk on top of the plastic engine cover could be from one of two things - someone spilling oil and not cleaning it up properly, or an overflow or mess caused by the power steering fluid - either as backpressure or again a spill. I can assure you I've never spilled anything on any car, but there's power steering residue on my cover around the power steering cap.
 
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Old 10-15-2016, 03:22 AM
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Well, I checked the tranny fluid, and it wasn't burnt, but it WAS very low. I put in almost a quart, did a lot of city driving today, and had no shifting issues. I'm assuming at this point I have a slow leak somewhere that isn't showing up on the ground, so I bought another quart of fluid and will be rechecking it weekly. I also cleaned off the engine cover and will be keeping an eye on that.

Now, next question. The engine seems way underpowered compared to what I expected. I've driven V8's before, and in fact have access to a Toyota Tundra with a smaller V8 that is far more sprightly. It also doesn't seem to make any difference whether I use regular or premium--the underwhelming power is the same. It hauls *** if I floor it, but it doesn't even move when I put it in reverse.

Any ideas?
 
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Old 11-10-2016, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 96z34man
The engine seems way underpowered compared to what I expected.
Has it been like this since you bought it or is it something that has it changed since you've owned it? 300 hp really isn't that much for a modern car so it isn't going to be a rocket ship.

I've driven V8's before, and in fact have access to a Toyota Tundra with a smaller V8 that is far more sprightly.
Far too many variables there for an A to B comparison. It doesn't help that you're comparing with a butt dyno instead of using an actual measurement method. The Tundra may have a steep rear end or 1st gear ratio that makes it feel more peppy. Also the torque curve can make one engine feel stronger than the other.

Size of the engine has absolutely nothing to do with it either. The new gt350 has a "smaller" 5.2L but makes 200+ more horsepower. Heck even the 5.0 is 400+.

If you're really concerned it might have an issue, id take one of two approaches:
-Find a way to quantifiably measure it. Put it on a chassis dyno or take it to the drag strip. It should make mid 200s for wheel horsepower, and should run mid-low 14s at just under 100 mph. You can use DA correction to make up for weather differences. If you're way off from that, there could be a problem.
-Go through the diagnosis process for reduced power. Look at the plugs, read the pcm and see what timing and fueling are doing, etc.

It hauls *** if I floor it, but it doesn't even move when I put it in reverse
This is confusing. You say the engine is underpowered, but then you say it hauls *** if you floor it, which is it?

If reverse is gone and the fluid is at the proper level, youre probably looking at a rebuild. Maybe it's just one bad component, but if the trans is coming out for work, you may as well have the whole thing freshened up.
 

Last edited by bumpin96monte; 11-11-2016 at 04:40 PM.
  #8  
Old 11-11-2016, 11:30 AM
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Doesn't even move in reverse? Needs a transmission if the fluid level and color is good.
 
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Old 11-13-2016, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
Has it been like this since you bought it or is it something that has it changed since you've owned it? 300 hp really isn't that much for a modern car so it isn't going to be a rocket ship.

Since I bought it.


If you're really concerned it might have an issue, id take one of two approaches:
-Find a way to quantifiably measure it. Put it on a chassis dyno or take it to the drag strip. It should make mid 200s for wheel horsepower, and should run mid-low 14s at just under 100 mph. You can use DA correction to make up for weather differences. If you're way off from that, there could be a problem.
-Go through the diagnosis process for reduced power. Look at the plugs, read the pcm and see what timing and fueling are doing, etc.

Don't have access to a dyno, a drag strip, or any way to read the PCM. But thanks for the link.


This is confusing. You say the engine is underpowered, but then you say it hauls *** if you floor it, which is it?

It's not confusing. The Tundra, which weighs more and has a smaller, lower-powered engine, hauls *** WITHOUT flooring it. (So did my 240-hp V6 Grand Prix.) The Monte hauls *** WITH flooring.

If reverse is gone and the fluid is at the proper level, youre probably looking at a rebuild. Maybe it's just one bad component, but if the trans is coming out for work, you may as well have the whole thing freshened up.
Oy. I never said reverse was "gone." I said that when I shift the Monte into reverse, it just sits there. If I apply gas, it moves just fine. If I shift the Tundra (and when I shifted the Grand Prix and the Aurora) into reverse, they moved backward with alacrity without the slightest pressure on the pedal.
 
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:01 AM
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Don't have access to a dyno, a drag strip, or any way to read the PCM. But thanks for the link.
Sounds like you're going to have to take it somewhere to get it diagnosed then since it sounds like you're convinced it has an issue, but have no way to read the pcm and sensors. Anything we tell you is just going to be guessing without some sort of data.

It's not confusing. The Tundra, which weighs more and has a smaller, lower-powered engine, hauls *** WITHOUT flooring it. (So did my 240-hp V6 Grand Prix.) The Monte hauls *** WITH flooring.
Sorry, that wasn't clear from the original post that the montr only has a part throttle issue. Again, I still caution against comparing two different vehicles, especially a drive by wire vehicle. The monte could have slower throttle mapping at part throttle. The pcm isn't always set up to be 1 to 1 with the throttle pedal.


Originally Posted by 96z34man
Oy. I never said reverse was "gone." I said that when I shift the Monte into reverse, it just sits there. If I apply gas, it moves just fine. If I shift the Tundra (and when I shifted the Grand Prix and the Aurora) into reverse, they moved backward with alacrity without the slightest pressure on the pedal.
Sorry, again it wasn't clear from the original post. Again, without any diagnostic tools, all you can really do is check the fluid level. Otherwise you'll probably just have to take it somewhere if you think there's an issue to have it checked out.
 

Last edited by bumpin96monte; 11-13-2016 at 08:07 AM.



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