5th Gen ('95-'99): 3100 Hurting Bad - Ran Low On Oil!
#11
03-21-2017, 10:15 PM
A smashed plug is pretty common when something comes apart. Unfortunately it used to be a common sight on L67 forums when a newbie would stick a tiny pulley on with nearly no mods and chunk a piston.
In this case though, I'm not really understanding what would've cause a piston or valve to break. If it ran out of oil to the point where the lifters lost pressure, the valves would probably operate like normal just with drastically reduced lift.
No doubt something broke inside from looking at that plug, I think pulling the head is the next step to figure out what all is broken. I bet you're onto something with scored up cylinder walls causing the oil leakage.
In this case though, I'm not really understanding what would've cause a piston or valve to break. If it ran out of oil to the point where the lifters lost pressure, the valves would probably operate like normal just with drastically reduced lift.
No doubt something broke inside from looking at that plug, I think pulling the head is the next step to figure out what all is broken. I bet you're onto something with scored up cylinder walls causing the oil leakage.
#12
04-04-2017, 08:17 PM
Okay so I don't really have much time right now to type a page worth of what happened between my last post and now, but I basically stuck a borescope down in cylinder 3 and I think the walls are good enough to be honed out and for me to replace the piston and head and get the car back on the road.
Oh and I need to replace the piston as there's a huge shattered hole in it, don't have time to post pictures at the moment, but I will at some point.
I'd like to start ordering parts for the car asap so I'm wondering if I'm thinking correctly in that I should be able to get a used piston and rod assembly, hone the cylinder out, and stick it in. I'm not sure if I'd need new rings, or use the ones that are on the used piston, also not sure if I need new rod bearings for that used piston and rod assembly.
I also need to know which kind of hone I need, ball or stone and what grit etc. Don't want to spend a huge amount of money on it as it's once and done most likely. Also looking for a good all around ring compressor that's pretty cheap as well.
I will be doing all of the work with the engine in the car, and I have never done anything like this before, but I've never let that stop me yet.
Also looking for information on doing a 3400 or 3100 large port upper and lower intake manifold swap. I already have a 56mm 3400 TB, I'm mainly wondering which manifolds (if any) will be completely directly swappable (only things I know of being an issue are the EGR and also the coolant pipe). I'd rather not delete the EGR, unless someone can tell me if it effects MPG much (codes won't matter, if I do a topswap, I'll get a MMS PCM).
Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance everyone!
Oh and I need to replace the piston as there's a huge shattered hole in it, don't have time to post pictures at the moment, but I will at some point.
I'd like to start ordering parts for the car asap so I'm wondering if I'm thinking correctly in that I should be able to get a used piston and rod assembly, hone the cylinder out, and stick it in. I'm not sure if I'd need new rings, or use the ones that are on the used piston, also not sure if I need new rod bearings for that used piston and rod assembly.
I also need to know which kind of hone I need, ball or stone and what grit etc. Don't want to spend a huge amount of money on it as it's once and done most likely. Also looking for a good all around ring compressor that's pretty cheap as well.
I will be doing all of the work with the engine in the car, and I have never done anything like this before, but I've never let that stop me yet.
Also looking for information on doing a 3400 or 3100 large port upper and lower intake manifold swap. I already have a 56mm 3400 TB, I'm mainly wondering which manifolds (if any) will be completely directly swappable (only things I know of being an issue are the EGR and also the coolant pipe). I'd rather not delete the EGR, unless someone can tell me if it effects MPG much (codes won't matter, if I do a topswap, I'll get a MMS PCM).
Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance everyone!