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Want to save yourself a few dollars? Change your own oil. Don't know how? Keep reading!
jack and jack stands
ramps(instead of jack/jack stands)
block of wood/cinder block/brick
oil drain pan
5 qt of your favorite oil
Even if this is your first time, the job shouldn't take more than 30-45 minutes
First thing you want to do is make sure you are on level ground, if you aren't, I'd suggest using ramps. I used a jack and jack stands so my write up will reflect that. Make sure the parking brake is set and place the wood/cinder block/brick(or whatever else is handy) in front of the rear wheel to prevent the car from rolling forward. Place the jack under the vehicle and position it so it's under the engine cradle where the lower A arm bolts into it(see picture below)
Jack the car up high enough for you to fit under it, then place the jackstand under the vehicle as pictured below(repeat this process for the other side)
Once both sides are supported, get under the car and place the drain pan under the oil pan and remove the drain plug from the oil pan using a 13mm socket
Then remove the oil fill cap from the valve cover so the oil drains faster. While the oil is draining, unplug the sensor just above the oil filter and carefully set it aside and out of the way to avoid accidentally getting oil on it.
Then remove the filter using the filter wrench. Be careful because the filter will be full of oil. Place the filter in the drip pan. Let the oil drain until it's slowly dripping and then reinstall the oil pan drain plug and tighten to approx. 20ft lbs. I didn't have a torque wrench at my disposal so I just tightened it down pretty snug, being careful not to over tighten and strip it out. Wipe away any oil on the oil pan, around the drain plug, and on the engine block near where the oil filter goes.
I chose to use a K&N oil filter, which makes the job a little easier because instead of trying to maneuver a filter wrench to install/remove it, it's got a 1" nut welded on the end of it.
Before you put the filter on, make sure to pour half a quart of oil into it and apply a light coat of oil to the gasket. Then you can screw it on, I chose to do this from under the car since I was already there. You want to tighten the filter until it's snug, don't wrench it down as you can and will strip it. After tightening the filter, check for any leaks and wipe away any oil that may have dripped out during installation. Reattach the sensor.
Now grab your oil of choice and empty 4 quarts into the engine. I chose Royal Purple for it's superior lubricating properties and extended oil life.
After filling the engine with oil, reinstall the oil fill cap and lower the vehicle back to the ground. After a few minutes, the oil should be down in the pan enough for you to get an accurate reading of the oil level. Make sure it's filled to the appropriate level and you're done!
The car idles smoother, starts up smoother, runs a little cooler, and it feels like the throttle response is better too. I can't really tell if there is any hp and torque increase, my butt dyno needs to be recalibrated
how can i take the "oil change" out of my mssger center i did change the oil but i dont know how to do that
There is a gas pedal trick where you turn the key to the on position without starting the car, then press the gas pedal to the floor slowly 3 times within 5 seconds and it should go away. An easier or should I say more direct way is doing it through your stock radio. There is a write up in your owners manual... I beleive it is in chapter 5.
I would actually buy 6 quarts because I change my oil the same way, about half a quart to fill up the new oil filter before you put it on the car. I start my car and check the oil level and if it's a little low, a splash of oil from that 6th quart does the trick.
__________________ 2003 Monte Carlo SS: Dynomax Exhaust, K&N CAI, Graphics
2014 Ford Mustang GT/CS Convertible
i wanted to get some the last time, but couldnt justify the price. oils are way cheaper when there bought by the 5 quart jug, instead of singles. do they sell a 5 quarter of purple???
07 LT with Full Memphis Audio System, Big Belle Amp, 6.5 Comonents, 6x9s, and a Mojo, Down To The 0 Gauge Wiring and Premium RCAs, CAI intake, Assurance Triple Tread Tires, Brumuda Black L.E.D. Tails and Third Brake Light, Black Projector Heads, Home Made Amp Rack, SLP Exhaust
FuTuRe MoDs = kenwood dnx6960, onstar antenna removal, new head gaskets
Royal Purple is a synthetic motor oil, so I would rank it right up there with the Amsoil, Mobil 1 EP, and Red Line oils.
Some people, and the manufactures go above and beyond and say you can go 15,000-25,000 mile between oil changes on these oils. Personally I never go more than about 7,500-9,000 miles between oil changes with synthetic oils! Its definitely longer than I would ever push a conventional oil, but I also would never feel comfortable pushing a synthetic much past 10K.
I've run RP in mine before, and can't say I noticed an increase in oil life, it did seem to run a bit smoother though.
Also +1 for the KN filter, having the nut on the end make removal super easy.
To replace the filter I usually crank the steering all the way to the right, and just reach in through the opening and break the filter loose with a wrench then spin it off by hand. It's is a lot easier than trying to finagle a filter full of oil down to the bottom of the car.
Parts replaced: Ball Joints, Front Wheel Bearings, tie rod end, pads, rotors, IM gaskets, Valve Cover Gaskets, blower motor, alternator....