I probably do, but they are in my service manuals at home and I am at work. Create a thread with your questions and see if anyone can answer them!

 

On the 3400, which style water pump is used?

 

How long would it take to replace the water pump and thermostat? and whats the $$$$$?

 

I replaced my Water Pump and wanted to make sure I had to remove the pulley to get that last bolt....

But I just wanted to bump this thread to see if Chibi happened to still have the pictures/diagrams that aren't showing up? I finished mine, but might be helpful for the next person! Thanks!

 

Chibi, these pics are dead. Any chance you can revive them? Thanks!

 

I just replaced my water pump on my 3.8L 2003 MonteSS last week.

Here are some notes if you do this .. it's a fairly easy job.
Drain the rad into a container using the lower driver's side petcock or siphoning out of the rad cap.
To drain from the lower petcock you may have to remove the chin spoiler(5 bolts)
Remove the upper tower cross-brace and plastic expansion tank to gain room.

As mentioned above, loosen the water pump pulley bolts prior to removing the belt..
Remove the belt by pulling back on the tensioner with a socket and bar..
Remove the two bolts for the power steering pump and move it a bit out of the way to get at the hidden water pump bolt.
The power steering pump bolts can be accessed through holes in the power steering pump pulley.
I did this from the above and it was fine.

Remove the eight water pump bolts which appear to be non-metric.! 4 x small and 4 x large bolts.
Be prepared to leak anti-freeze when removing the larger bolts and pump.

IMG_0451_zpskp2ivqsw.jpg

IMG_0450_zpspevtuswh.jpg
Clean the block surface, install new gasket on block pins, install new water pump.
Replace water pump bolts, torque to spec.
I used some thread sealer on the larger bolts as they go thru into the water jackets.
Replace the water pump pulley and semi tighten the pulley bolts
Replace the power steering pump/bolts. You're working sorta blind.
It was a challenge as you can't see you just kinda feel around there and hope you don't cross thread the bolt..

Replace the belt and do a final tighten for the water pump pulley bolts.
Replace the expansion tank and cross brace.
At this point I chose to replace my thermostat as well.
Put anti freeze in the rad and add some to expansion tank.
Let car sit for 24hrs for the thread sealer to set.. Optional.!

Next morning start car and immediately top-up anti-freeze, replace cap, let car come to temp.
After thermostat opens then CAREFULLY bleed-off any air at the bleeder screw in the thermostat housing.
After checking for any leaks, you could take the car around the block.
Park and let stand for 3-4 hours to cool down then check level in radiator.. top-up, replace cap.

that should do it.
sorry I didn't take too many pictures.

graham
I'm not really a mechanic nor have a played one on TV..
..

 

So I had my pump replaced a year ago.
I was having a fluid leak checked this week and turns out the garage that replaced the water pump did not apply Teflon to the bolts and it was leaking thru the threads. He claims its not necessary. Apparently it was important.
I guess I won't be going there for repairs anymore.

Thoughts?

 

There are in fact bolts for the water pump that go through and the ends sit in coolant (if you remove the bolts, coolant can come out of the open bolt holes). I believe the shop manual tells you to apply a sealant. When I replaced my water pump and used stainless replacement bolts, I did use teflon paste with them to protect against this issue.

 

Not so simple 2 of the bolt require you to remove two extra pulleys one simple enough the other about impossible thermostat on the other hand took me 5 minutes it's right there on the top engine exposed to everythingI'm stuck trying to get this last both off and see no way of doing it without cutting it off

 

Im not able to post new threads but thought i would reply here. I just replaced my water pump and thermostat not long ago after i noticed the wheep hole was leaking and car kept loosing coolant.i habe had car constantly lose coolant even as of this morning.i have a miss fire cylinder to and compression is at 120 while others are 150.fuel, spark etc all checks out..

just pulled spark and noticed water on it and now see a puddle of water ontop of cylinder number 2 but no water in crank case.ill soak it out with rags..i cant really see any leaking on the outside of engine from any fluid..

any idead as to what might have caused this leak/over heating issue and where?i also lose oil but cant find where its going...when doing the old dollar bill on exhaust, the bill does get sucked back in at certain times.i assume a bad exhaust valve especially rite after last weeks over heating episode.

valve cover off rite now and want to take off cylinder head..any steps as well on this?