Monte Carlo Forums

Go Back   Monte Carlo Forum - Monte Carlo Enthusiast Forums > General Forums > Monte Carlo Repair Help > FWD Tech Guides '95-'07
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Welcome to the Monte Carlo Forum - Monte Carlo Enthusiast Forums.
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 02-29-2012, 10:08 AM
Shandley's Avatar
3 Year Member1 Year Member
 
Trader Rating:(0)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great White North
Posts: 162
Default How to change your brakes and rotor.

How to change your brakes and rotors - Full Steps (non-referal step by step)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Greetings,

Do your brake pads look like this?

Click the image to open in full size.

Yeah, I know. Pretty bad. I had NO idea mine were that low until I heard the metal on metal grinding between the pad metal backing and the rotor.

Here is what you require:

1 - Jack
2 - Torque Wrench
3 - Extension
4 - 19mm socket
5 - Breaker Bar Tire Iron
6 - New Pads and Rotors
7 - Blocks
8 - Jack Stands
9 - 15mm socket
10 - Tire Iron
11- Bungee cord
12 - C-clamp.

Procedure
1. E brake on!
2. Wheel blocks at the back tires. 2x4 will work fine but go big if you can
3. Position jack and get it set (it's a lot less frustrating to do this first. Once your start going, you don't want to wait for the jack to be worked up).
4. Remove bolt cover and loosen lug nuts (do NOT remove them) with a breaker bar, extension and socket or use the tire iron. Do NOT use your torque wrench.
5. jack up and put in jack stand(s)
6. Remove wheel

7. Here you will see the caliper, the caliper bracket, your rotor and your pads. Take your 15mm socket and breaker bar and remove the two outer bolts (top and bottom). You can identify which two these bolts are by the rubber boots. Mine were on at around 150lbs/foot. You want to use a breaker bar here. Place the pin bolts aside in a clean area.

8. wriggle the caliper off of the caliper bracket and hang it from the bungee cord which you should wrap around the top of your spring suspension. The caliper will be a little snug so move it left to right first to slightly depress the caliper piston. Do NOT use a screwdriver to do this. Do NOT just let the caliper hang from the brake line. This will damage it and you will have turned an easy job to a very hard job.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

9. Remove the inner two bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket and pull the bracket off. Your pads will likely fall out. Place aside.

10. Your rotor is now free! Pull it off.

11. You want to clean the hub. Wipe the hub and surrounding areas with a damp cloth. Do not use WD40 here. Just wet cloth or alcohol or even brake cleaner. The hub should be nearly shiny. I like to take a SMALL amount of grease and lube around the hub, then wipe off with a towel. This is my way of keeping corrosion down.

12. Clean the top and bottom brake pad shims (or mounts where the pads sit top and bottom on the caliper bracket). I use alcohol here, then lube, then wipe and re-lube and wipe. You do not want any extra grease here that will fall onto the rotor and cause some pretty major braking problems. You want your pads to be able to slide, that's all.

13. Clean your new rotor with alcohol or brake clean. Put your new rotor on. Some people will use an emery cloth to scuff them up. I don't. Most rotors cross honed and do not need this. You will get a nice break in during the bedding in process (see below).

14. Re-mount the caliper bracket. Some people like to put their pads in before they put the bracket on. I've never had a problem putting them in after. I would suggest putting the bolts in a couple threads then install your pads.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

15. Before you install your pads, make sure they are CLEAN! Install your pads. They only go in one way so jiggle them in. You may notice that two of the pads in the set have middle tabs. Those are your noise makers when the pads get low to let you know how low they are. You want those pads on the inside, trailing edge of the disc (UNLESS otherwise stated on your documentation that may have come with the pads).

Tighten the caliper mounting bracket. I use a torque setting of 100 and add a hand crack after. This is about 130. I believe the specs call for 132. I do not add anti-seize.

Click the image to open in full size.

16. Do not ignore any part of this step. Open your hood and loosen (do not remove) the brake fluid cap. Leave your hood open. Take one of your old pads and a C-clamp big enough to fit over your caliper. You need to depress the caliper piston back in. Do this VERY slowly or you will have a big brake fluid mess. Crank on the c-clamp a quarter turn slowly and wait until it is loose. Then, crank another quarter turn or so and wait. Do this until the caliper is completely depressed. Remove the c-clamp and old brake pad.

Click the image to open in full size.

17. Install your caliper as it was before. Make sure there is NO debris on the pin bolts. You may want to re-lube them with wheel grease. NOT TOO MUCH or they will not go in. It's sealed inside and there is no room for anything extra in the pin holes. Tighten these to 100 plus a hand crack.

18. Put the brake fluid cap back on!!!!!!!!! I like to open my door and SLOWLY tap on the brakes until they are hard. This way I know they are working. Then, open the cap again and make sure the fluid is still full. If you had no spillage, you should be fine.

19. Put on new wheel
20. Put lug nuts back on hand tight plus a quarter turn. You don't want the wheel loose but you don't want any play when you lower the vehicle.
21. Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle.
22. Set your torque wrench to 100lbs/ft (yep, it's that high).

Lug Nut Tightening. See photo below
23. Torque the first lug nut using the extension and socket.
24. Go across from that nut and tighten that one.
25. Go across back to the first nut and tighten the one beside it.
26. Keep this going until you are done.
27. Replace lug nut cover.



WAIT, you are not done yet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

28. Start your car and pump very slowly on the brake pedal. You should feel it start to firm up. If not, check your brake fluid and make sure your cap is on tight.

Bedding In the Brakes
-------------------------

29. This is the fun part. First, you want to warm up your brakes. Accelerate your vehicle to 60km/h and moderately brake until about 10km/h. Do this 6 times. This will warm up your brakes for the next step.

30. Accelerate your vehicle to 100km/h and brake HARD without locking the brakes or engaging the ABS down to 10km/h or so. Do this 4 or 5 times. After, you will not want to come to a complete stop with your brakes. In an ideal world, you would finish your last hard brake and drift into your driveway without touching the brakes and parking, again without touching the brakes. Neutral is your friend here. Park for hours. Let your brakes cool COMPLETELY.

What this does is adds a layer of the brake pad onto the rotor. This makes for a perfect mating surface which will increase braking performance AND extend the life of your brakes.
__________________
Thanks,

Shandley


2001 Monte Carlo SS
-K&N Air Filter, 2.5" Downpipe with high flow cat & ubend delete, ZZP Power Log, Tuned PCM, JMB Fenderwell CAI, HP Tuner

Last edited by Shandley; 04-13-2012 at 09:42 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-29-2012, 10:20 AM
ChibiBlackSheep's Avatar

Monte Of The Month -- August 2014
5 Year Member3 Year Member1 Year Member

 
Trader Rating:(0)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: North Wales, PA
Posts: 22,908
mikerogers.design ChibiBlackSheep mikerogersdesigns ChibiBlackSheep ChibiBlackSheep thismikerogers
Send a message via AIM to ChibiBlackSheep
Default

Good write-up

The only thing I like to do is before I remove anything, I like to shoot everything down with some brake cleaner, and then continue to clean as I go like you said.
__________________

Daily Driver - 2013 IOM Camaro 1LS | LFX and M6
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-13-2012, 09:22 PM
ETexasTwister's Avatar

 
Trader Rating:(0)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Longview TX
Posts: 26
Default Great Pictures

And a great right-up thanks for the wonderful effort.
I was wondering if it is really OK to back flush the anti-lock system while depressing the brake piston or should we just let it bleed into a jar and refill the Master cylinder reservoir? Thanks again, Great Job
__________________
Monte Carlo 2002 3800 series II BYP
Intimidator Tribute Car
Rubbin's Racin'
In an environment of rapid change experience could be your worst enemy
JP Getty
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-13-2012, 09:39 PM
Shandley's Avatar
3 Year Member1 Year Member
 
Trader Rating:(0)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great White North
Posts: 162
Default

I may loosen the bleeder a bit from now on now that you mention it
__________________
Thanks,

Shandley


2001 Monte Carlo SS
-K&N Air Filter, 2.5" Downpipe with high flow cat & ubend delete, ZZP Power Log, Tuned PCM, JMB Fenderwell CAI, HP Tuner

Last edited by Shandley; 04-13-2012 at 09:49 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-13-2012, 11:56 PM
Mr.Monte's Avatar
3 Year Member1 Year Member

 
Trader Rating:(0)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 1,404
MrMonte SAAN
Default

great post!
__________________
Find Me on Youtube
www.Youtube.com/mrmonte2k5
www.photobucket.com/MrMonte2k5[/COLOR]

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-14-2012, 02:49 PM
Jparks's Avatar
3 Year Member1 Year Member

 
Trader Rating:(0)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Vernon, British Columbia
Posts: 819
justinmparkinson Jparks5 ca.linkedin.com/in/Justinparkinson Hir0k Zoticuss DLMpiks
Send a message via Skype™ to Jparks
Default

Love the post wish I had the confidence to do this myself
__________________

Jparks
Justinparkinson.wordpress.com
06 Monte SS - CAI Cold Air¬ Pypes Hiflow Cat¬ Res Delete¬ 3" Exhaust¬ Thrush Turbo Mufflers
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-14-2012, 04:45 PM
01 Monte SS's Avatar

Monte Of The Month -- October 2012

 
Trader Rating:(0)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 2,886
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Parkinson View Post
Love the post wish I had the confidence to do this myself
Same here haha.. one of the many things I wouldn't want to screw up on
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-16-2012, 02:33 PM
04chevyboy's Avatar
3 Year Member1 Year Member

 
Trader Rating:(0)
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Whitney Point,New York
Posts: 1,575
Dylan Dedrick
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jparks View Post
Love the post wish I had the confidence to do this myself
Quote:
Originally Posted by 01 Monte SS View Post
Same here haha.. one of the many things I wouldn't want to screw up on
oh you guys can change the brakes easy,and save money!
__________________

04 SS
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-16-2012, 02:38 PM
ChibiBlackSheep's Avatar

Monte Of The Month -- August 2014
5 Year Member3 Year Member1 Year Member

 
Trader Rating:(0)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: North Wales, PA
Posts: 22,908
mikerogers.design ChibiBlackSheep mikerogersdesigns ChibiBlackSheep ChibiBlackSheep thismikerogers
Send a message via AIM to ChibiBlackSheep
Default

This is one of those things that is pretty hard to screw up.

There are basics that everyone shouldn't have to pay a shop to do. Rotate Tires, Change Brakes and Rotors, Change Oil, Flush Coolant, Change Alternator, Change Belt, Change Battery, Change Air Filter, Plugs and Wires.

All of those require just a basic set of hand-tools and a jack/stands.
__________________

Daily Driver - 2013 IOM Camaro 1LS | LFX and M6
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-16-2012, 03:38 PM
The_Maniac's Avatar

Monte Of The Month -- December 2011
Monte Of The Month -- September 2014
3 Year Member1 Year Member

 
Trader Rating:(1)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 8,184
Default

I tend to use the C-Clamp to compress the caliper BEFORE removing any bolts. This way it all comes apart very easily.

Also, I have learned, per the shop book you need to apply GM Threadlocker to the bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle. From what I have found, Red LocTite should be the same as the GM Thread locker (FYI, it's on my bolts now and I have proven, it will break with hand tools after it's curing time).
__________________
-Jason
Check out my websites below:
- 1984 Camaro Z28 5.0 Liter HO Restore Project/Big Toy
- 2004 Monte Carlo SS 3800 N/A See website for MOD List
- 2004 Grand Am GT SC/T - Current daily driver
Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2012, 03:38 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Tags
1998, 2001, 98, bolts, bracket, brake, caliper, carlo, change, chevrolet, filter, monte, move, oil, pads, rotors, torque, wont


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:05 AM.

© Internet Brands, Inc.



SEO by vBSEO ©2010, Crawlability, Inc.