I just did this job this morning and I'll add my $.02


If you don't haev a 36MM socket, a 12 point 1 5/16th will take teh hub nut off. The 6 point won't, but a 12 point will.


I assume you used a zip tie to hold you brake caliper assembly to the spring?


And before you try to pull that wheel hub off hte axle, spray it down with the old PB Blaster nad beat that axle with a hammer a few times. And I mean beat the $hit out of it. Then when you pull the wheel hub, you can lightly tap the axle, it will pop free, and everything will pop right free... if you're like me.


Thanks for the help....

 

Ive learned to read...your language...lol (Translate your spelling)

Just messn with ya...

 

I use rope and tie the caliper to the spring.

But yeah... you gotta beat that sucker like mad if you live anywhere that snows lol

 

I've said it before, I'll say it again..... If you have an air compressor, get an Air Hammer to remove the hub.

All hubs I've done, I used an Air Hammer to pop them out of the knuckle. I can't imagine beating that thing out by hand.... And I hope to never try.

 

Thanks, I will defenatly print this out! my passenger hub just started to hum loudly after the freak snow we just got... ):


Also, a quick tip to take less time:

Steps 3 & 4 can be shortened by just removing the caliper bracket with the caliper. Since the caliper floats in the bracket, nothing really holds it on but pressure & suction to the slides. No pad removal needed!

 

Another tip: Use the 5% discount code from Rock Auto in our "Vendor Section" and you can get the Timken hub assemblies #513179 for LESS than the Duralast Chinese crap from Auto Zone, or probably just about anywhere else for that matter, unless you can get them at cost somewhere. GET THE TIMKENS!

Edit:
I just did mine, and it took me about 2 hrs each, and I had no real problems. But then I've had the axles out several times because I've had to remove my tranny because of broken flexplates several times!

The 3 bolts holding in the hub in have threadlocker on them. The ONLY way to get them out is with heat. I only have a propane torch, but it worked fine with a little patience. You WILL need a 13mm 6 point socket and a long breaker bar, or if you use a long handled ratchet as I did, a 3" extension also. Some said a air driven chisel would help, and I was prepared, but my 32 oz. dead blow ball pien hammer worked just fine. Also, at least on my car I used 33 mm socket, not a 36mm. DON'T FORGET THE THREADLOCKER ON THE BOLTS PUTTING THEM BACK IN!!

This was, all in all, a relatively simple job, and it'd been done quicker if I'd had some real torches and a heated barn.

 

Guys what kinds of Wheel Barrings do you recommend??

 

go with timken. as stated in 2 posts above, go on RockAuto (<-link). I don't think there is a 5% discount at the moment but you can still get it cheaper. Usually takes 2-3 days to get it.

 

I looked and couldn't find any discount codes anywhere. But Rock Auto STILL has the best prices around.

 

I did a quick Google search and in like 5 seconds I found a coupon code that is still valid for RockAuto (and I tested it, it works, site claims it's good until March of 2013). Check the link below:
Rock Auto Coupon: Get $6 Off w/ January 2013 Coupon Codes