The stuff looks nice.
One thing I read a lot from the Bonneville crowd (who have messed with the 3800 for years before it came to the Monte), the LIM should not be polished. Just shave down the rough castings and port match it to the heads (which is what I did years ago with mine). The idea behind it is if it's still has a texture to it, it helps cause the air to be turbulent as it goes in and improves it's ability to mix with the fuel. I'd assume the same is true of the heads. A polished and smooth texture reduces the chance for the air to be turbulent and sure the fuel/air will still mix, just not as effectively (thus reducing the end effect in the cylinder).

 

Thanks. Hmm. Not saying their wrong, but from what i have ready, its good because it allows more air to flow smoother. And this is good for forced induction engines. But im pretty sure with some tuning in the performance build it will work out. Once you change the air flow you have to change the fuel flow. And the fuel flow can only be done by tuning. They also say if you get headers is best to tune the car because of your changing the flow of the exhaust. I can only imagine that its the same process for the intake.
The PnP LIM is installed on the car now and i havent had any problems. No difference in gas milage, it seems to run smoother though. And i havent dont any tuning.

 

I believe the logic of not having smooth LIM passages was tested with N/A applications, not sure the Bonnie guys ever did it with forced induction. I believe in their concepts about turbulent air from other things I've read about air/fuel mixing.

Regardless, I am sure everything will still work great with your build. That was more a "food for thought" item.

 

If it doesnt work out, ill swap it out with my spare LIM which is not ported. Thanks for the info though.

 

Regardless if it's the best approach or not, I doubt you'll need to worry about swapping to a spare LIM. As you mentioned, you are doing forced induction, so it may not matter much either way.

It will be interesting just to see the final product

 

Agreed, i doubt i have issues. I cant wait till its done though.

 

I now have all the connecting rods, and pistons. I am in the process of saving up to take the engine to a shop and have a list of things done. List includes........

open oil galleries and journals, plug rear balance shaft oil gallery, balance engine, match piston to cylinders, install Arp connecting rod bolts, connecting rod bearings, connecting rods, pistons, install cam ( specs will be given), degree cam, install double roller timing chain, and set timing.

I believe that should do it for the list

 

No offense intended, but it sure looks like a used l67 would've been the way to go here. Stick a cam and a double roller in there before it goes in and just let her eat.

Are they forged pistons?

 

No offense taken, i know what you mean. But at least this way all parts will be brand new execpt the heads, block, and crankshaft. Remember im looking to hit 500whp with this build. So i dont want used parts.
The rods and pistons are from a 2006 Pontiac grand prix supercharged. From my research the motor in that car is an L32 and the piston are forged, and the rods are powdered metal from factory I paid $110 each ( shipped ) for the pistons.

 

There have been plenty of bone stock 3800 bottom ends do 500-600+ whp completely untouched. As long as the fueling is on point and you keep it from knocking, a stock bottom end wouldn't be the limiting factor at 500 whp.

The concern with a 'built' 3800 bottom end is that they have a horrific track record. Multiple people have had 3800s built that failed shortly thereafter and destroyed thousands of dollars worth of built bottom end.

Unfortunately, it looks like you were misled. L32 pistons are cast just like all 3800s. The only tiny benefit is that they have a skirt coating, but from what I've seen, it wears off pretty quickly. That's also extremely expensive for stock pistons. If you really paid $660 for cast pistons, the Diamond forged pistons are only a little more expensive, uncoated ones are only like $725 or so.

The rods aren't really worth the cost IMO. GM didn't change to PM rods because they're stronger, it's because they're cheaper. Certainly the press/sintering process and their design likely makes them slightly stronger, but IMO they shouldn't really be considered a performance upgrade. Really I haven't seen any cast rods fail from too much power on a 3800. If nothing else, you could just have the casting flash cleaned up to slightly strengthen them.

If you really want an upgraded rod, zzp has some H beam rods which should be notably stronger.

Main reason I bring it up is because I didn't want you thinking you were going to end up with something notably stronger than stock with the current parts list. The ARP rod bolts are probably the only real item that I see adding strength over a stock engine.

Also, you don't plan to run that timing chain dampener with the double roller, are you?