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Old 02-11-2017, 09:16 PM
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Default LS Swap

Wanting to swap my engine and trans, But undecided on what engine/trans and from what make and year. SC/MC or a LS Swap. a LS Swap really has my interest but don't know what engine and trans would work and bolt up. This will be my first swap looking for advice as well ideas.i have a 2000 MC/SS 3800 L36 6Gen

Last edited by 2000/MCSS; 02-11-2017 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 02-12-2017, 08:27 AM
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As mentioned in your other post, I don't think it's worth it to swap in an LS.

The only (relatively) easy option is the front wheel drive LS4 out of a newer monte ss / impala ss / gp gxp / etc. All other RWD LS engines would require extra work.

IMO a l67/l32 3800 is a better choice for a few reasons:
-Itll be a nearly plug and play change with your current harness since you already have a NA 3800.
-They're very cheap
-It can make far more power than you'll ever be able to use (between the trans limitations and traction limits). No doubt a built LS could make more power ultimately, but you'll never be able to hook and the thing will eat transmissions for breakfast
-bolt ons for an L67 gain more power since it's a boosted engine. There aren't a ton of cheap and easy bolt ons for the ls4.
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Old 02-13-2017, 08:52 PM
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I believe I want to go with a L67 engine and trans swap, for my first swap. I want to upgrade from what I already have. I believe stock a NA 3800 makes 200hp if I'm not mistaken and 225 in torque. SC 3800 makes 240hp and 280 torque. I think I came build on that with a few changes before I drop in back in. with the rite mods. I know more air means more horsepower. But you can get gains from the cam as well, and pulleys on SC. but that all I know .
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Old 02-13-2017, 09:48 PM
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Doing a cam swap with the engine out is the perfect time. It'll never be easier.

With that said, I wouldnt worry too much about doing a ton of mods for a couple reasons:
-it's easier to diagnose issues on a stock engine during a swap. If you did 20 things to it first and then swapped it in and it ran poorly, it can be harder to figure out what's wrong. Is an aftermarket part bad, is the cam installed wrong, is it a wiring issuex etc
-you also don't want to put so much money into it that you keep pushing the swap off. Do what you can in a reasonable time for your budget and worry about the rest later.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:39 AM
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Keep your engine and but a used intercooled turbo kit. Will make way more power than a supercharged 3800 and be a lot easier to install.
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Old 02-17-2017, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by turbo monte View Post
Keep your engine and but a used intercooled turbo kit. Will make way more power than a supercharged 3800 and be a lot easier to install.
Normally I'd agree, but if I remember right, he's got almost 250k miles on his powertrain. I think that's one of the cases where getting something lower mileage in would be worthwhile.
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Old 02-18-2017, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte View Post
Normally I'd agree, but if I remember right, he's got almost 250k miles on his powertrain. I think that's one of the cases where getting something lower mileage in would be worthwhile.
I would still use it until she goes. Then replace it with another l36 engine. They are cheaper
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Old 02-19-2017, 07:50 AM
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I would still use it until she goes. Then replace it with another l36 engine. They are cheaper
I guess it just depends on the OP's tolerance to catastrophic failure.

I'm probably more risk averse than most in that aspect. I don't have a truck/trailer, nor do I have a hookup on one unless I know well in advance. My normal cruise spots are about 1.5-2 hours away from home and some of the special occasion trips can be up to 4 or so hours away. I'd probably be a wash between paying for a tow from that far vs just dropping a newer bottom end in ahead of time.
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Old 02-19-2017, 08:47 AM
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I guess it just depends on the OP's tolerance to catastrophic failure.

I'm probably more risk averse than most in that aspect. I don't have a truck/trailer, nor do I have a hookup on one unless I know well in advance. My normal cruise spots are about 1.5-2 hours away from home and some of the special occasion trips can be up to 4 or so hours away. I'd probably be a wash between paying for a tow from that far vs just dropping a newer bottom end in ahead of time.
Well the idea is to fix only what needs to be done now so that the car run smooth, then I want to buy the engine and break it down and replace seals, gaskets, clean it up, put in a cam, and then go from there, as I was advised to. first thought was too do all mods then drop it in but was advise otherwise and it made better sense. I still want to be able to drive car until I'm ready for the swap. I'm doing research and getting as much info that I can because this will be my first swap. so I'm trying to learn about parts and what way would be best to go. I hadn't thought much on turbo, I never had a supercharged car but drove a few and love how they feel. the insist power I love it. from what I know about turbo is that u have to wait for the boost to build up, and that turbo lag is a issue wit them. (But I do hear they do make a lot of power and are not that had to install. nor are as costly). some say u lose power with supercharger because they run off the crank. not sure if true nor how much of a lost it is really.

Last edited by 2000/MCSS; 02-19-2017 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 02-19-2017, 02:14 PM
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I hadn't thought much on turbo, I never had a supercharged car but drove a few and love how they feel. the insist power I love it. from what I know about turbo is that u have to wait for the boost to build up, and that turbo lag is a issue wit them. (But I do hear they do make a lot of power and are not that had to install. nor are as costly). some say u lose power with supercharger because they run off the crank. not sure if true nor how much of a lost it is really.
If you like the instant hit of boost, a roots blower is the way to go. There are ways to get a turbo up to speed quicker depending on how you'll use it (brake boosting, 2 step, high stall converter, anti lag, etc) but most of those are racing only tricks, you'd still have to live with it spooling up during street driving.

Used turbo kits are getting cheap, but they aren't the cheapest option on a 3800 for boost. Having the option of swapping on a factory supercharger (from the l67) is far cheaper. We've had a few locals pull it off for under $500 including all gaskets, fluids, etc. There's no way you could touch a turbo kit for anywhere near that.

It is correct that a supercharger requires power to spin. The bigger the blower, the more power it takes. It's just like spinning any of the other accessories on the engine, but they have a lot more mass to rotate. I wouldn't worry so much about power it takes to spin, but more what your goals are for power. The stock blower can only take out up to about 400 whp on a fully modded engine, if your goals are higher than that you either need a bigger/better blower or a turbo.
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