i'm new to this so please bare with me. I need some advice. I have an 04 intimidator ss. about a month ago I went to pass someone and it fell on its face but pulled back out of it and ran fine until I was almost home and it started running really crappy. had the icm tested and it was fine as were the msd coils. decided to change the plugs and cylinder 5,4,6 plugs didn't have any gap(as if they were hit by the pistons) there was no evidence of being hit by anything except on cylinder 6 which had scuff marks.changed the plugs and it runs good now but has a ticking sound. changed the lifters...still ticking. the next day I swapped fuel injectors....still ticking.also replaced supercharger coupling and oil (nothing to do with the issue, just wanted to do it) monte has 84000 miles with a few mods including, msd coils, wires, autolite 104 plugs. cold air kit, reprogrammed pcm, 180 thermostat. magnaflow cat and dynomax cat back system.oil has always been changed between 2500-3000 miles with mobile 1 synthetic 10w30 and fram extra guard filter. any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

ok well first off throw the msd coils in the trash, there nothing but issues go back to stock.... what kind or wires? I recommend either stock ac delco wires or PRJ performance wires only. who programmed the pcm? was it a mail order tune or dyno tuned or you tuned it? do you have a way of monitoring knock retard? have you dropped pulley size? you might want to get a little camera on one of them flex sticks to stick through the spark plug holes to inspect pistons and also run a compression test. any way of posting up a video of the tick/knock?

 

msd wires also.3800 performance reprogrammed the pcm.i don't have any way of monitoring knock retard and yes I changed the sc pulley. I believe it has the smallest one without modifying the snout. I didn't inspect the pistons or check compression do to the fact that it runs fine, just has the tickin. cant post a video as of right now. just went out to start it and it cranks but no spark lol. did a self test n found the icm is junk. not sending signal to the cam and crank sensors

 

Um, that could be a problem; a 3.8 pulley is stock & people generally drop pulley sizes as they add supporting mods. From what you have listed, you might be able to run a size 3.4. If you go considerably smaller, you will have KR (Knock Retard) especially at WOT & high RPM. The PCM will start pulling timing in an effort to save your engine. Find out what size pulley you have on...

 

O my. If you are running that small of a pulley that's bad news. I agree a 3.4 pulley is pushing the limits with the mods you have listed. And I would still do a compression test to be safe. again I say ditch all msd components. And buy a aero force scan gauge to monitor knock retard. This gauge is a must for anyone modding a car IMO

Also could be a connecting rod bearing that let loose.....

 

if my tape measure measurement is correct it is a 3 inch pulley. all these mods have been done for alil over 2 years now so to me something shoulda gave a long time ago if they had that much affect on the engine. I have been told before that it could be a rod bearing but to me it really sounds like its in the top end I just don't know where. I even put a stethoscope on it and u still cant pinpoint it. I hear it the most on the front valve cover

 

for some reason it wont even start now. no spark! had it runnin yesterday then took the belts off (5 mins) and went to start it and it didn't happen. turns over but wont fire. I did a self test on the ignition control module and it failed to send a signal to the cam and crank sensors. had it tested at autozone and they said it was good so I put it on a buddys ssei and it started right up so I would assume its something to do with the cam or crank sensor or the wiring that plugs into the icm

 

Or coils. Doubt all 3 coils went at the same time though. And running a 3.0 pulley on a non intercooled setup without headers even is very bad news. Your gonna grenade that engine if you haven't already with the issues you have.

I don't mean to sound like a A$$ but this is what I have seen and know and been taught....

 

I don't think you sound like an A$$ at all. I want any and all advice I can get and I appreciate it

 

Running too small of a pulley might work for a long time if you rarely "get on it". The engine damaging knock typically doesn't occur in the lower RPM range. Running poor fuel is another factor that can cause detonation & detonation (knock) is bad for these engines...

You still have the problem of a plug with a mark on it and zero gap; I've never seen detonation do that; it's possible that a rod is starting to come loose and the piston is traveling further than it's supposed to be (rod bearing or wrist pin). OR, the piston is coming apart. As turbo mentioned, find a scope, or borrow one if you can.